A BRIEF HISTORY OF RUG WEAVING IN TIBET

Pile weaving for a multitude of functions was an integral part of Tibetan culture. Wool from the highland sheep or changphel, provided the raw material for essential household items used by nomads, farmers, lamas, and royalty alike. Items included saddle carpets (taden), riding blankets, animal trappings (takyal), prostration mats, throne covers, door covers (goyo), trunk and table covers, temple pillar hanging, etc.  The most common form of pile weaving, the khaden, or sleeping mat was about 3’x6’ and was ubiquitous to all levels of Tibetan society. Monastery rugs were distinguished by ecclesiastical colors of saffron or red and golden yellow or orange. Runners or tsokden, were spread out in assembly halls and chapels with rows of cushions on which the monks sat for prayers or to receive teachings. Khagangma adorned the seats of high lamas and a scalloped shaped carpet covered the back rest of the throne. Kathum, or pillar rugs were produced for the monasteries and often depicted a dragon chasing a flaming jewel. Wall hangings, sitting rugs, including tiger pelt rugs (bokchak), and oversized floor carpets (sapden) were commissioned by the monasteries also.

The major weaving centers developed in Gyantse, in a fertile farming valley in the Tsang region, strategically located on the main Lhasa-Sikkim trade route. Here, designs inspired by Chinese silk brocades became popular, as was the use of cotton yarn for warp, introduced in the 1920’s by the British trade agent. Regional variations in design and taste reflected a great deal of individual expression, especially in home production. In contrast, most of the art forms of this conservative theocracy were religious in nature and subject to formulaic specifications of Buddhist iconography.

By the 1920’s and ‘30’s, aristocratic estates usually produced enough carpets for their own use and as gifts and offerings to monasteries. By the late 1940’s, a few commercial workshops were established to satisfy an increasing demand for carpets. During the reign of the 13th Dalai Lama, the first official weaver’s guild was established in Gyantse. Graduates of the guild were designated “master weavers.” Guild workshops produced high quality carpets almost exclusively for monastic and official use. In 1953, a weaving guild was established in Lhasa. Here, pieces such as saddle and bed-sized carpets were produced for the Dalai Lamas.

Long study and dedication were required to become a master of any traditional craft or art form. Master carpet weavers were respected for their skills and artistic talent. Every estate-run and government guild workshop had at least one master weaver in residence. Apprenticeships of several years started with learning wool yarn production. Before learning how to inspect and select the raw wool, an apprentice would learn the techniques involved in handling wool: washing, carding, and spinning. After one or two years at this, one could begin to judge the quality of raw wool at the shearing or purchasing stage. Since a carpet is only as good as the wool used, this was a critical skill to master.

The next stage of an apprenticeship involved learning how to produce a carpet from beginning to end. Under the guidance of an experienced weaver, the basic skills were acquired and the apprentice’s potential was assessed by the master weaver. If displaying talent, one could progress to independently weaving small rugs with geometric designs such as the checkerboard (shumi), eventually graduating to more elaborate designs. An advanced apprentice could “read” the back of a finished carpet to reproduce the design. Personal style could be developed as designs were reinterpreted or new elements introduced. If exceptionally talented, the apprentice might receive instruction from the master weaver himself. Design elements that would become a part of the apprentice’s range included cloud patterns, lotus flowers, dragons, the phoenix and the snow lions.

Source: Chodrak, Trinley, and Kesang Tashi, Of Wool and Loom  Bangkok, Thailand:Weatherhill, Inc. 2000.